Sewing Tips Newsletter – Issue 6

Sewing Tips Newsletter
by Jenny T.

Whether you’re a beginner sewer or someone that’s coming back to sewing after a long break, you’ll find this week’s sewing tip helpful. Especially if you’re a quilter and you’ve been itching to sew the more advanced quilt blocks that have those scary curves!

This week, I’m going to explain how to sew corners and curves.

In this issue:

1. How To Sew Corners and Curves

2. Ask Jenny T. Now

3. What’s new in Simple Sewing Projects

4. Decorating Advice

And now… on to this week’s sewing tip!


Sewing Tip #6: How To Sew Corners and Curves

In this lesson, you’re going to learn 9 hand stitches that you’ll need to know for almost any sewing project. Even though most of your sewing projects will be sewn by machine, there is always a chance you’ll need to thread that hand needle a do a little hand stitching. Having these hand skills under your belt will help you be more successful with your sewing.

The video for this lesson is at

Sewing Corners

1. Lay 2 rectangular pieces of fabric right sides together, aligning the raw edges

2. At the corner, mark the seam allowance from each edge (ex. 5/8″)

3. Sew one side and stop at the mark with the needle down.

4. Turn the fabric and continue sewing the seam allowance

5. Trim off the corner close to the stitching line, but not through it

6. Turn your fabric right sides out. Use a pencil to help make the corners pointy.

Sewing Curves Part 1

1. Lay the two pieces of fabric that have the same shape and curve right sides together

2. Sew the seam allowance around the curve

3. You may need to sew slowly as you turn the fabric

4. Clip out “V”‘s along the curve’s seam allowance

5. Turn the fabric right sides out.

Sewing Curves Part 2

Use these steps if you need to piece a concave piece and a convex piece together. Concave is a cut out curve. Convex is a curve that curves outward.

1. Lay the two pieces of fabric right sides together… aligning the center points of each curve

2. Force the raw edge of the concave curve to align with the convex curve… using lots of pins.

3. Sew the seam allowance around the curve

4. You may need to sew slowly as you turn the fabric

5. Clip out “V”‘s along the curve’s seam allowance

6. Turn the fabric right sides out… and press well.

Discover video and audio of even more sewing tips, how-to’s and resources by visiting You’ll even be able to subscribe to these weekly sewing tips and how-to’s and receive them through your iTunes or podcast player.


Ask Jenny T Now

While you wait for the next sewing tip, be sure to visit and submit your sewing question. Your question maybe answered in my next podcast or newsletter!

Question from Maria: Hi Jenny, I’m currantly working on new pillow covers for my sofa. I”m using an invisible zipper. Are there any tricks to could share when sewing these type of zippers? I do have the proper foot for my machine. thx maria

Answer: There is a complete video series on sewing invisible zippers on Lots of tips and tricks here.

Question from Kathy: if you join the monthly club,,,, does that include the cutout swag how to info?

Answer: YES! If you are a super sewer member, you get access to everything. (I know… it’s hard to believe, but it’s true!)

Question from Linda: I am making draperies that have 3 inch grommets at the top for the pole. How is placement for the grommets, and allowance for the return? I have read that you need to have an even number of grommets, is this true?

Answer: When sewing grommet curtains, you need an even number of grommets. Your edge of your curtain will point either toward the wall or toward the room. If you have an odd number of grommets, one end will point into the room… and you don’t want that.

To space them, first you need to decide where the end grommets will go. If you place them too far from the edge, the edge of the curtain may hit the wall. So, you’ll need to measure from the wall to the drapery pole. That’s where your first grommet’s inside edge will start. You’ll the same for the other end.

Now, lay the drapery panel in front of you, and place the grommets so that you can visually see how they look. You want about 3 to 4″ or more in between each grommet opening. Too little and you wont’ be able to bend the curtain to slide the next grommet on to the pole. Once you get a good layout, measure and start marking. You’ll want the top most edge of the grommet to be an inch below the top edge.

I have complete video series on sewing grommet curtains at

Question from Joyce: Hi Jenny,I have read your article on interlining, something I have never used in curtain making. I need to make 2 pairs of silk curtains which will require interlining. What would be your advice in using a combined lining and interlining ? I don’t have a lot of space for laying the fabric out and thought this would make it easier. I really would appreciate some advice. King regards Joyce.

Answer: This would definetly make it easier. Beware of extra bulk when folding your fabric in the heading. I personally haven’t used this, but it sounds like a great time saver.

Question from Mary Ellen: I always have trouble with lining of drapes hanging straight. I have tried to pull a thread across to find the grain but find this is almost impossible. I need help. thanks

Answer: I agree. Pulling a thread doesn’t always work. What I usually do is trim off the selvage edges first to loosen the weave and then press well. I then use a T-Square to draw a square line to cut.

Question from Patsy: How to sew a cushion for a bench

Answer: This month’s project is How To Sew A Piped Box Cushion! Visit to see this project.

Question from Laura: I have been asked to sew drapes and curtins for others, not friends or relatives. Please give me an idea of how to charge?

Answer: I would charge by the square foot of fabric. The larger the drapes or window treatment, the more fabric… the higher the price. I would start at about $15 per square foot… and then adjust as you get more experience.

Question from Kathrin: I’m making a rectangle pillow with piping (at the edge) and a zipper. Should I use your instructions for a lap zipper in this instance? It seems a bit tricky with piping and zipper sharing that part of the seam, but I want it to look professional. I’m curious what you think. thanks.

Answer: The lesson I have on uses a centered zipper. But you could easily change this to a lapped zipper using the video for a lapped zipper. This is the easiest. I would only do an invisible zipper in the seam if you are an advanced sewer. Sewing piped box cushions is not the easiest of projects, and adding a zipper into the seam can really make things messy. I will eventually get a video out on this, but in the meantime I recommend a lapped zipper for a professional look.

Visit and submit your sewing question today.


What’s New This Month In

1. Project of the Month: How To Sew A Piped Box Cushion. (*For Super Sewer Members Only*)

2. Window Treatment of the Month: How To Sew A Slatted Roman Shade. (*For Super Sewer Members Only*)

3. The online class “How To Sew Swags and Drapes – A Live Case Study” is available for you to sign up! Please visit for more info and to sign up.

4. Jenny T.’s Sewing Review: Using a ruffler presser foot (will be posted next week)

5. How To Sew… : How To Sew Custom Welt Cord (piping)

Gain immediate access to all this exciting content plus to all of the archived sewing projects and how-to’s.

Here’s the link to subscribe to

I hope to see you in the member’s site!


Decorating Advice

If you have a decorating question, please visit and submit your question.


Happy Sewing!

Jenny T.

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